Paying every month and the balance hardly moves? This debt payoff calculator shows when you could be debt-free, or what it takes in a set time.
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You know your debts and what you pay on each. We find the month you're debt-free and what it costs you.You know your debts and how many years you want it to take. We find how much to pay each month.
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Explore What It Really Takes to Be Debt-Free
THE BIGGER PICTURE
Your debt-free date: what it costs, and what can change it
What your answer says, what moves it most, and what no calculator can know about your debts.
You pay every month, and the balance hardly seems to move. You want to see the day it ends, and know that what you do now really gets you there.
This debt payoff calculator answers one of two questions about the debts you already have, up to five of them: a credit card, a car loan, a student loan. When will you be debt-free, and what will it cost you? Or, if you want to be done in a set number of years, how much do you need to pay each month?
Your answer is an estimate. It assumes you pay at the end of every month, your interest rates stay the same, and nothing new goes on these debts. Each debt is paid with its own monthly payment, and any extra goes to the debt with the highest rate first. Your lender may work out interest day by day, so your statements can differ by a small amount, and by more if fees are added. It is an estimate to plan with, not a promise.
What moves your number the most
The examples below start from one debt: $5,000 at 12% a year, paying $150 a month. 12% is the calculator’s starting rate, close to the US average for a 24-month personal loan (Federal Reserve, August 2026). That debt is gone in 3 years and 5 months, after 41 payments, and costs about $1,112 in interest.
- A little extra each month moves the date the most. Add $50 a month and you are done in 2 years and 5 months, a full year sooner, with about $782 in interest. Add $100 and it takes 1 year and 11 months, with about $607.
- A one-time amount helps, and the earlier it comes, the more it helps. Put $1,000 from a tax refund or a bonus toward the debt with your first payment, and you are done in 2 years and 8 months, with about $689 in interest. The same $1,000 paid a year later means about $843 in interest.
- The rate decides how much of your money goes to interest. The same $5,000 and $150 a month at 22%, about what US credit cards charge on accounts that carry a balance (Federal Reserve, August 2026), takes 4 years and 4 months and costs about $2,798 in interest, more than twice as much. At 7%, it takes 3 years and 2 months and costs about $576.
- A payment close to the interest barely moves the debt. At 12%, the first month’s interest on $5,000 is $50. Paying $51 a month would take 33 years and cost about $15,152 in interest. Paying $45, less than the interest, the debt grows every month: the calculator says “Not yet” and shows what would start it moving.
- New spending moves the date back. Put another $500 on this debt today, keep paying $150, and it takes 3 years and 10 months, 5 months longer, with about $1,386 in interest instead of $1,112.
Why so much of each payment goes to interest
Each month, interest is worked out on what you still owe. In the example, the first month’s interest is $50, so of your first $150 payment only $100 goes to the debt itself. As the balance falls, the interest falls with it, and more of each payment goes to the debt.
Over the whole plan, about $1,112 of the $6,112 you pay is interest: about $18 of every $100. On a credit card at 22%, with the same $5,000 and $150 a month, it is about $2,798 of $7,798: about $36 of every $100.
Under your answer, the “things worth knowing about getting debt-free” button opens an expanded answer that shows this split for your own debts.
Highest rate first, or smallest debt first?
With several debts, people usually choose between two orders for any money above the required payments. Paying the highest-rate debt first (often called the debt avalanche) saves the most interest. Paying the smallest debt first (the debt snowball) clears one debt sooner, a quick win that some people find keeps them going. The Consumer Financial Protection Bureau describes both.
In this calculator, each debt is paid with its own payment, and any extra goes to the highest-rate debt first. It does not compare the two orders for the plan itself. With more than one debt, the expanded answer compares the two orders for one thing only: what happens if a finished debt’s payment moves on to the next one.
An example with three debts: a card of $4,000 at 24% ($120 a month), a second card of $2,500 at 19% ($75) and a car loan of $9,000 at 7% ($260). Paying each on its own, the last one is gone in 4 years and 8 months, with about $4,822 in interest. Moving each finished debt’s payment to the next one, highest rate first: 3 years and 9 months, and about $226 less interest. Smallest debt first: also 3 years and 9 months, and about $218 less. Here the order changes the cost by about $8; in this example, moving the payment on is what brings the date closer. Your own numbers may show a bigger gap.
In this example, both orders pay off all three debts. Which order suits you is your choice.
What paying only the minimum really costs
A card’s minimum payment is often a small share of what you owe plus that month’s interest. The calculator uses a common card rule: 1% of the balance plus the month’s interest, at least $25. Your card’s own rule may differ.
Because the minimum shrinks as the balance shrinks, it takes a long time. On the example ($5,000 at 12%), paying only the minimum takes 17 years and 4 months and costs about $4,242 in interest. On a card at 22%, it takes 19 years and 2 months and costs about $8,100. In “When will I be debt-free?”, the line above the button under your answer shows this comparison for your own debts.
In the US, your card statement shows how long the minimum alone would take, and how much a month would pay the balance off in 3 years. The Consumer Financial Protection Bureau explains that box: its amounts count only your current balance, not new purchases.
In the UK, if over 18 months you pay more in interest, fees and charges than you pay off what you borrowed (the rules call this persistent debt), your card provider must contact you; after 36 months it must offer you a way to pay it off faster (Financial Conduct Authority).
When your rate changes
The calculator keeps your rate the same the whole time. Real rates can change. In the US, a card’s rate can go up when a temporary rate ends (such as a low rate on a balance transfer), when a variable rate follows its index up, or when your minimum payment has not been received within 60 days after its due date. For other increases the card company must give you 45 days’ notice, and the new rate generally applies to new purchases (Consumer Financial Protection Bureau).
If your rate changes, enter the new one and see the new date. In the example, 18% instead of 12% makes it 3 years and 11 months instead of 3 years and 5 months, and about $1,984 in interest instead of $1,112. The expanded answer also shows where your date would move if every rate rose by 5 percentage points.
Balance transfers and consolidation loans, explained
These are two common ways people try to lower the rate. A balance transfer moves card debt to another card with a low or 0% rate for a limited time, usually for a fee: a share of the amount you move or a fixed amount, whichever is more. A consolidation loan is one new loan that pays off several debts, so you have one payment.
The Consumer Financial Protection Bureau points out what to check: low rates that last only for a time, the fees, and a lower monthly payment spread over longer, which can cost more overall. It also notes that taking on new debt rarely works unless spending goes down. The Federal Trade Commission adds that a loan against your home puts the home at risk if you can’t make the payments.
To compare, run the calculator twice: once with your debts as they are, and once with the new rate and monthly payment, adding any fee to “Amount you owe”. We don’t recommend either one, or any lender.
Paying down debt and keeping a small cushion
An emergency halfway, such as a car repair or a lost month of pay, can push your date back or end up on a card. Some people keep a small cushion while they pay down debt. Others put every spare dollar on the debt first, especially when its rate is high. Both are common; it depends on your situation.
The Consumer Financial Protection Bureau’s guide to emergency savings suggests starting from the unexpected costs you have had before. The Savings Goal Calculator shows how long a cushion of your size would take.
If it feels too big: where free help is
In the US, credit counseling organizations are usually nonprofit. They advise on money and debts and can set up a debt management plan: one monthly payment to the organization, which pays your lenders (Consumer Financial Protection Bureau). The Federal Trade Commission warns that a nonprofit label does not guarantee the service is free, affordable or legitimate, so ask about fees before you sign up. It also warns that debt settlement (getting a lender to accept less than you owe, often through a company) can be risky, and that a settlement company can’t charge you before it settles a debt.
In the UK, MoneyHelper lists free, confidential debt advice.
This is information, not a recommendation of any organization.
Worth testing while you’re here
Try both questions on your own debts. In “When will I be debt-free?”, add $25 or $50 under “Extra you can add each month” and see how much sooner it comes. In the other question, try different time periods under “Debt-free in”: for the example debt, 2 years needs $236 a month, 3 years needs $167, and at 4 years what you pay now is already enough.
Have more than one debt? Add each one, so you get one date for all of them. Not sure of a rate? Your statement may call it APR.
Once you are debt-free, the money you paid each month is yours again. The Compound Interest Calculator shows what $150 a month could grow into. All our calculators are on the financial calculators page.
What this calculator can’t know
It assumes you pay the same amount at the end of every month, with no month missed, that your rates stay the same, and that nothing new goes on these debts. The monthly rate is the yearly rate divided by 12, charged on what you still owe. It does not include fees, such as annual fees, late fees or a balance transfer fee, unless you add them to what you owe.
It doesn’t know your budget, so it can’t say whether a monthly amount is affordable. It doesn’t know your lender’s own rules, your credit score, or what happens with options such as debt settlement, bankruptcy, or student loan forgiveness and income-based plans.
It shows what your numbers say. The decision stays with you.
Financial terms, explained
Words that appear in this calculator or on this page, in plain English.
- Amount you owe (balance)
- What is left to pay on a debt today. You find it on your statement or in your lender’s app.
- Interest rate (per year)
- The yearly rate used to work out interest on what you owe. The calculator divides it by 12 for each month: at 12%, $5,000 grows by $50 in the first month.
- APR (annual percentage rate)
- The yearly rate shown on your statement. On a card it is the interest rate. On a loan it is the interest rate plus some fees charged when the loan was made, so it can be a little higher than the interest rate alone. In the EU it is the annual percentage rate of charge, also shortened to APR (TAEG or TAE in some countries); the UK uses APR too. Consumer Financial Protection Bureau: interest rate and APR on a loan ↗
- Interest
- What a lender charges you for the money you still owe. On the example $5,000 at 12%, paying $150 a month, it adds up to about $1,112.
- The debt itself (principal)
- What you still owe, not counting interest. The part of each payment that is not interest goes to the debt itself and makes it smaller.
- What you pay each month
- The monthly payment you enter for a debt. For a card, it may be the minimum payment or more; for a loan, it is usually the set payment on your loan papers.
- Minimum payment
- The smallest amount your card company asks you to pay by the due date, so the account is not treated as late. Each card sets its own rule.
- Minimums only
- Paying just the minimum every month. The calculator uses a common card rule: 1% of the balance plus the month’s interest, at least $25.
- Extra you can add each month
- Money on top of what you already pay. In the calculator it goes to the debt with the highest rate first.
- One-time extra payment
- A single amount, such as a tax refund or a bonus, paid toward your debts in a month you choose.
- Debt-free date
- The month your last payment goes out and you owe nothing on these debts. With several debts, “Done by” shows this month for each one.
- Total you pay
- Everything you pay on a debt: what you owe plus the interest. It does not include fees unless you added them to what you owe.
- Variable rate
- A rate that can move up or down over time, because it follows another rate (an index).
- Penalty rate
- A higher rate some cards charge after a late payment. In the US, a card company may apply it if your minimum payment has not been received within 60 days after the due date.
- Balance transfer
- Moving card debt to another card, often with a low or 0% rate for a limited time and a fee for the move. When the low rate ends, the usual rate applies.
- Consolidation loan
- One new loan that pays off several debts, so you have one monthly payment.
- Highest rate first (debt avalanche)
- Putting any extra money on the debt with the highest rate first. It saves the most interest.
- Smallest debt first (debt snowball)
- Putting any extra money on the smallest debt first. It clears one debt sooner.
- Moving a finished debt’s payment to the next one
- When one debt is gone, adding its monthly payment to another debt, so you keep paying the same total. The calculator shows this as an idea in its expanded answer.
- Credit counseling
- Advice on money and debts, usually from a nonprofit organization, which can include a debt management plan: one monthly payment to the organization, which pays your lenders.
- Debt settlement
- An arrangement in which a lender agrees to accept less than you owe, often made through a company that charges a fee. The Federal Trade Commission warns it can be risky.
How long will it take to pay off my debt?
It depends on three numbers: what you owe, the rate, and what you pay each month. For example, $5,000 at 12% a year, paying $150 a month, is gone in 3 years and 5 months, with about $1,112 in interest. Enter your own debts above to see your date.
How long does it take to pay off $10,000 on a credit card?
At 22% a year, about what US cards charge on accounts that carry a balance: 4 years and 4 months at $300 a month (about $5,596 in interest), 2 years and 10 months at $400 (about $3,500), and 2 years and 2 months at $500 (about $2,571). Enter your own rate and payment above for your date.
How long would it take if I only pay the minimum?
Often decades. With a common card rule (1% of the balance plus the month’s interest, at least $25), $10,000 at 22% takes 24 years and 11 months to pay off and costs about $17,266 in interest. Your card’s own rule may differ, and your statement shows how long its minimum would take.
How much do I need to pay each month to pay off $10,000 in a year?
At 22% a year, about $936 a month for 1 year (about $1,231 in interest). Spread it longer and the monthly amount drops, but the interest grows: $519 a month for 2 years (about $2,449), $382 for 3 years (about $3,747), and $277 for 5 years (about $6,533). Choose “I want to be debt-free in a set time” above to see your own amount.
Is it worth paying an extra $100 a month?
On $10,000 at 22%, going from $300 to $400 a month brings the date 1 year and 6 months closer and saves about $2,096 in interest. How much it does for you depends on your balance, your rate and what you pay now. Add your own extra under “Extra you can add each month” to see what it does for you.
Which debt should I pay off first?
Paying the highest-rate debt first costs the least interest; paying the smallest debt first clears one debt sooner. The calculator sends any extra to your highest-rate debt; it does not compare the two orders for your plan. With more than one debt, its expanded answer shows what moving a finished debt’s payment to the next one does, highest rate first and smallest debt first.
Should I pay off debt or build an emergency fund first?
There is no single answer: it depends on how high your rates are and how safe your income feels. A small cushion keeps a surprise bill off a card; paying debt first saves interest. The Savings Goal Calculator shows how long a cushion of your size would take.
Why is my lender’s payoff amount different from the calculator’s?
Because many card companies work out interest every day, on your average daily balance (Consumer Financial Protection Bureau), and lenders may add fees and count from the exact date of each payment. The calculator works out interest once a month, on the yearly rate divided by 12, so its numbers can differ by a small amount, and by more if fees are added. For the exact amount needed to pay off a debt on a particular date, ask your lender for a payoff amount for that date.
Debt Payoff Calculator (Excel)
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